Turkish Keşkek: Creamy Wheat Mash With Sizzling Butter

Quick Recipe Version (TL;DR)

• Yield: 6 servings
• Prep Time: 20 minutes (plus overnight soaking)
• Cook Time: 2 hours 15 minutes
• Total Time: 2 hours 35 minutes (plus soaking)

Quick Ingredients

• 2 cups hulled wheat (or wheat berries), rinsed and soaked overnight
• 1/2 cup dried chickpeas, rinsed and soaked overnight (optional)
• 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces (about 900 g total)
• 8 cups low-sodium chicken stock (plus 1–2 cups hot water as needed)
• 2 tsp fine sea salt, plus more to taste
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tsp sweet paprika
• 1/2 tsp Aleppo pepper or pul biber (Turkish red pepper flakes)
• 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (for garnish, optional)

Do This

• 1. Soak hulled wheat and chickpeas separately in plenty of water overnight; drain and rinse.
• 2. In a large heavy pot, combine soaked wheat, chickpeas, chicken, stock, 2 tsp salt, and pepper; bring to a boil, then simmer.
• 3. Skim foam, cover loosely, and cook on low 1 1/2–2 hours, stirring occasionally, until wheat is very soft and chicken is tender.
• 4. Remove chicken, cool slightly, then shred and keep warm; if needed, add hot water to the pot so the wheat is loose and spoonable.
• 5. Vigorously mash or pound the wheat mixture in the pot until it becomes thick, creamy, and porridge-like; taste and adjust seasoning.
• 6. Melt butter with olive oil; stir in paprika and Aleppo pepper until it sizzles. Spoon keşkek into a dish, top with shredded chicken, and drizzle with sizzling pepper butter and parsley.

---

Why You’ll Love This Recipe

• It is deeply comforting: a slow-cooked, ultra-creamy wheat mash with rich chicken and warm spices.
• Traditional yet approachable: captures the spirit of ceremonial Turkish keşkek using ingredients you can find in a regular supermarket.
• Feeds a crowd: one pot yields a generous, hearty meal perfect for family gatherings and special occasions.
• Flexible: make it with chicken or lamb, richer or lighter, or even adapt it for a pressure cooker.

Grocery List

• Produce: Flat-leaf parsley (optional, for garnish)
• Dairy: Unsalted butter, plain yogurt (optional, for serving)
• Pantry: Hulled wheat or wheat berries, dried chickpeas, low-sodium chicken stock, olive oil, sweet paprika, Aleppo pepper or red pepper flakes, ground black pepper, fine sea salt

Full Ingredients

For the Wheat Base

• 2 cups hulled wheat (Turkish “dövme” if available, or wheat berries), rinsed
• 1/2 cup dried chickpeas, rinsed (optional but traditional)
• 8 cups low-sodium chicken stock
• 1–2 cups hot water, as needed to adjust consistency
• 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt, to start (you will adjust later)
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

For the Chicken

• 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces (such as 2 thighs and 2 drumsticks, about 900 g total)
• 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

For the Sizzling Pepper Butter

• 4 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tsp sweet paprika
• 1/2 tsp Aleppo pepper or Turkish pul biber (or mild red pepper flakes)
• Pinch ground cumin (optional, for a slightly smoky note)
• Pinch fine sea salt, to taste

For Serving

• 2–3 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional)
• Plain yogurt, to taste (optional but lovely on the side)
• Extra Aleppo pepper or pul biber, to taste

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Soak the wheat and chickpeas

Up to 24 hours before you plan to cook, place the hulled wheat in a large bowl and cover with at least 5 cm of cold water. In a separate bowl, do the same with the dried chickpeas. Soak at room temperature for at least 8 hours or overnight. This softens the grains and chickpeas so they cook evenly and become creamy instead of chewy.

When you are ready to cook, drain the wheat and chickpeas in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse under cold running water. Set aside to drain well while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

Step 2: Start the slow cooking with chicken and stock

Season the chicken pieces all over with 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp black pepper. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven (at least 5 liters), add the drained wheat, drained chickpeas, and the seasoned chicken pieces. Pour in 8 cups of chicken stock.

Place the pot over medium-high heat and bring just to a boil. As it heats, use a spoon to skim off any foam that rises to the surface for a clearer, cleaner-tasting broth. Once boiling, reduce the heat to low so the mixture is at a very gentle simmer. Stir in 1 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp black pepper.

Partially cover the pot with a lid, leaving it slightly ajar, and let it gently simmer.

Step 3: Simmer until the wheat is very tender

Simmer the mixture on low heat for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, stirring every 15–20 minutes to prevent sticking and to help break down the grains. The chicken should become very tender and almost falling off the bone, and the wheat and chickpeas should be fully cooked and soft all the way through.

If at any point the liquid level drops too low and the wheat begins to look dry or stick to the bottom, stir in 1/2 cup of hot water at a time. You are aiming for a loose porridge consistency at this stage; it will thicken further when mashed.

Step 4: Shred the chicken and prepare the mash

Once the chicken is fully cooked and the wheat is very soft, turn off the heat. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to carefully transfer the chicken pieces to a plate. Let them cool just enough to handle, then remove the skin and bones and shred the meat into bite-sized strands. Cover loosely with foil to keep warm.

Return your attention to the pot of wheat and chickpeas. If there is still a lot of visible liquid, keep in mind that some will be absorbed as you mash. You want it to look like a thick soup or loose porridge before you start pounding. If it is very thick already, add a splash or two of hot water.

Step 5: Pound or mash the wheat until creamy

Traditional keşkek is pounded with a long wooden mallet, but at home you can use a sturdy wooden spoon, potato masher, or even a hand mixer on low. Place the pot over very low heat and begin vigorously mashing and stirring the wheat and chickpeas. Work for 5–10 minutes, breaking down the grains until the mixture transforms into a thick, creamy, stretchy mash with some soft texture remaining.

If it becomes too stiff or starts to catch on the bottom, add hot water a few tablespoons at a time and continue mashing. Taste and adjust with more salt and pepper as needed. When done, the keşkek should slowly mound on a spoon but still be spoonable and silky.

Step 6: Make the sizzling pepper butter

In a small saucepan or skillet, add the butter and olive oil. Place over medium-low heat and let the butter melt completely. Continue heating until the butter just begins to foam and smell nutty, but do not let it brown deeply.

Turn the heat to low and immediately stir in the sweet paprika, Aleppo pepper, and a pinch of cumin if using. Swirl the pan; the spices should sizzle gently, blooming in the hot fat and turning the butter a deep brick-red color. This should take about 20–30 seconds. Remove from heat right away so the spices do not burn and turn bitter. Season with a pinch of salt to taste.

Step 7: Assemble and serve the keşkek

Just before serving, give the wheat mash a final stir over low heat to ensure it is hot and creamy. If needed, loosen with a little more hot water. Spoon the keşkek into a large shallow serving dish or individual bowls, smoothing the surface slightly with the back of a spoon.

Arrange the shredded chicken in a generous mound on top or in the center. Rewarm the pepper butter briefly if it has cooled, then slowly drizzle it all over the chicken and keşkek, letting it pool in small, colorful rivulets. Garnish with chopped parsley and an extra pinch of Aleppo pepper if you like. Serve immediately, with plain yogurt on the side.

Pro Tips

• Use hulled wheat if you can find it. Turkish “dövme” or similar hulled wheat cooks creamier than regular whole wheat berries. If using very hard wheat berries, allow extra cooking time and water.
• Low and slow is key. Keep the simmer gentle. Boiling hard can toughen the chicken and cause the wheat to catch on the bottom of the pot.
• Do not rush the mashing. The transformation from grains to a ceremonial-style mash happens when you vigorously stir and mash for several minutes. This is where the signature keşkek texture comes from.
• Watch the spices in the butter. Paprika and Aleppo pepper burn easily; keep the heat low and remove the pan from the burner as soon as they sizzle and release their aroma.
• Adjust the final thickness. Keşkek should be thick but not dry. If it stiffens as it stands, simply stir in a little hot water or stock to bring it back to a creamy consistency.

Variations

• Lamb keşkek: Substitute 700–800 g of lamb shoulder or shank (bone-in pieces if possible) for the chicken. Brown the lamb lightly in a little oil first for extra flavor, then proceed with the recipe, extending the simmering time as needed until the lamb is very tender.
• Vegetarian version: Omit the meat and use vegetable stock instead of chicken stock. Add 2 tbsp olive oil to the pot with the wheat, and serve topped with extra pepper butter and crispy fried onions or roasted mushrooms for richness.
• Pressure cooker or Instant Pot: After soaking, combine wheat, chickpeas, stock, and chicken in the pot. Cook on high pressure for 35 minutes, natural release 15 minutes, then proceed with shredding and mashing. You may need to simmer briefly with the lid off to adjust the consistency.

Storage & Make-Ahead

Keşkek stores well and can easily be made ahead. Cool leftovers to room temperature, then refrigerate in airtight containers for up to 3–4 days. Store the shredded chicken and pepper butter separately if possible. Reheat the wheat mash gently in a covered saucepan over low heat, stirring in a splash or two of water or stock to loosen it from its firmer, chilled state. Warm the shredded chicken in a covered dish in the oven or in a pan with a spoonful of stock, and briefly reheat the pepper butter until fluid again. For longer storage, freeze the keşkek base (without the chicken) for up to 2 months; thaw overnight in the refrigerator before reheating and topping with freshly cooked or reheated meat and fresh pepper butter.

Nutrition (per serving)

Approximate values per serving (based on 6 servings, with chicken and pepper butter): about 550 calories; 33 g protein; 55 g carbohydrates; 20 g fat; 9 g saturated fat; 6 g fiber; 900 mg sodium. Actual values will vary depending on exact ingredients, brands, and portion sizes.