Quick Recipe Version (TL;DR)
Quick Ingredients
- 2.5 lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks
- 8 cups water (or 6 cups water + 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth)
- 2-inch piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced
- 1 medium yellow onion, halved
- 4 garlic cloves, smashed
- 1 medium green papaya (1.5–2 lb), peeled, seeded, cut into 1.5-inch wedges
- 1.5–2 tbsp fish sauce or 2–3 tbsp shoyu (soy sauce)
- 2 cups loosely packed watercress (about 3 oz), trimmed
- 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1 tsp whole black peppercorns (or 1/2 tsp ground)
- Optional: 3 scallions, thinly sliced; 1 lime, cut into wedges; 1/2 tsp sugar
Do This
- 1. Prep papaya (peel, seed, wedge), slice ginger, smash garlic, trim watercress.
- 2. Optional: Blanch chicken 2 minutes in boiling water for a clearer broth; rinse.
- 3. Simmer chicken, ginger, onion, garlic, pepper, salt, and 8 cups water at 185–195°F for 35–40 minutes; skim foam.
- 4. Remove onion; adjust salt lightly.
- 5. Add papaya; simmer 10–15 minutes until just tender.
- 6. Stir in fish sauce or shoyu; add watercress to wilt 30–60 seconds. Garnish with scallions and lime.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Classic island comfort: a clear, gingery broth that soothes and satisfies.
- Green papaya turns silky-tender while staying gently sweet and mild.
- Balanced seasoning with fish sauce or shoyu keeps flavors bright and clean.
- One pot, simple steps, and flexible for stovetop or pressure cooker.
Grocery List
- Produce: Green papaya, fresh ginger, yellow onion, garlic, watercress, scallions, lime
- Dairy: None
- Pantry: Fish sauce or shoyu (soy sauce), kosher salt, black peppercorns, low-sodium chicken broth (optional)
Full Ingredients
For the Chicken and Broth
- 2.5 lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks (about 6–8 pieces)
- 8 cups water (or use 6 cups water + 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth for richer flavor)
- 2-inch piece fresh ginger (about 20 g), thinly sliced into coins
- 1 medium yellow onion (about 8 oz), halved
- 4 garlic cloves, lightly smashed
- 1 tsp kosher salt (Diamond Crystal; use 3/4 tsp if using Morton)
- 1 tsp whole black peppercorns (or 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper)
To Finish and Serve
- 1 medium green papaya (1.5–2 lb), peeled, seeded, cut into 1.5-inch wedges
- 1.5–2 tbsp fish sauce or 2–3 tbsp shoyu (soy sauce), to taste
- 2 cups loosely packed watercress (about 3 oz), tough stems trimmed
- Optional: 3 scallions, thinly sliced; 1/2 tsp cane sugar; 1 lime, cut into wedges; steamed rice for serving

Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Prep the papaya, watercress, and aromatics
Peel the green papaya with a vegetable peeler, slice in half lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds. Cut into 1.5-inch wedges about 3/4-inch thick. Rinse the cut surfaces briefly under cool water to remove any milky sap, then set aside. Rinse and trim watercress. Slice ginger into thin coins; halve the onion; lightly smash the garlic.
Step 2: Optional blanch for a crystal-clear broth
For an ultra-clear soup, place chicken in a large pot, cover with cold water by 1 inch, bring to a boil, and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain, rinse the chicken and pot to remove impurities.
Step 3: Simmer the chicken with ginger and onion
Return chicken to the pot with 8 cups water, ginger, onion, garlic, peppercorns, and 1 tsp salt. Bring just to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce to maintain a bare simmer at 185–195°F. Cook, partially covered, for 35–40 minutes, skimming foam or fat as it rises. The chicken should be tender and nearly pulling from the bone.
Step 4: Skim and adjust the base
Remove the onion halves and discard. Taste the broth; add a pinch of salt if needed, but keep seasoning light before adding fish sauce or shoyu later. If you prefer a leaner soup, lift off and discard excess surface fat with a ladle.
Step 5: Add green papaya and cook until just tender
Slide in the papaya wedges. Maintain the gentle simmer (185–195°F) for 10–15 minutes, until the pieces are just tender when pierced and their edges look slightly translucent. Avoid vigorous boiling so the papaya stays intact and silky.
Step 6: Finish with fish sauce or shoyu and watercress
Stir in 1.5–2 tbsp fish sauce (or 2–3 tbsp shoyu). If using fish sauce and you prefer a rounder finish, add 1/2 tsp sugar. Adjust salt to taste. Add the watercress and cook 30–60 seconds, just until gently wilted. Off heat, add sliced scallions if using and a few grinds of black pepper.
Step 7: Serve
Ladle into warm bowls, including a piece of chicken and a few papaya wedges per serving. Offer lime wedges and steamed rice on the side. Sip the broth hot while the watercress is vibrant and the papaya is tender.
Pro Tips
- Choose truly green papaya: firm, heavy for its size, and without yellow patches. Slightly yellow papaya will soften faster; add it later and cook less.
- Keep the simmer gentle (185–195°F). A rolling boil can cloud the broth and make chicken stringy.
- For the cleanest flavor, blanch the chicken first and skim diligently.
- Cut papaya wedges uniformly so they cook evenly and hold their shape.
- Add watercress at the end; it wilts fast and should stay bright and fresh.
Variations
- Instant Pot: Combine chicken, aromatics, water, salt, and pepper. Cook on High Pressure for 18 minutes; natural release 10 minutes. Switch to Sauté, add papaya, and simmer 8–10 minutes. Stir in fish sauce or shoyu and watercress to wilt.
- Chayote Swap: Use 2 medium chayote squash (peeled, seeded, wedged) instead of papaya for a similarly delicate, crisp-tender bite.
- Long Rice Add-In: Soak 3–4 oz bean thread noodles in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain and add in the last 3–4 minutes to turn the soup into a heartier bowl.
Storage & Make-Ahead
Refrigerate cooled soup in airtight containers for up to 4 days. The broth improves overnight. For best texture, store watercress separately and add when reheating. The soup (without watercress) freezes well up to 3 months; papaya softens slightly after freezing, so you may prefer to freeze just the broth and chicken, then add fresh papaya and watercress when reheating. Reheat gently to a simmer; do not boil.
Nutrition (per serving)
Approximate: 230 calories; 20 g protein; 12 g fat; 8 g carbohydrates; 1 g fiber; 780 mg sodium (varies with fish sauce/shoyu and added salt).
